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😍 5/5 - Just wonderful
By 👻 @Joe B, 09/08/2019 3:00 am
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First you should know that the menu is limited and the servings are small. This place is wine-forward. But the food is astronomical! Just order a lot of it, the prices are not obscene. The wine list skews expensive so be ready for that, but the selections are wonderful, and we were able to interact (and get advice from) not one but two sommeliers! Both well informed and congenial. But back to the food: just spectacular. Every dish was original, balanced, delicious. Novel ingredients (well, somewhat novel) were used to brilliant effect, not just as gimmicks. Very discrete use of smoke flavors enhanced a few dishes (I'm not big on smoke but these were PERFECT). Example: a mini tart with sea urchin and trout eggs. Every little bite was a slice of heaven. An egg with caviar, roasted beef bone marrow custard...you spoon out little aliquots of perfectly intense deliciousness. A crab salad (I don't like crab but humored my dining partner) was spectacular: ultra-fresh tasting, with excellent use of opposing flavors to create that perfect balance (yes, I'm really big on balance). And then a plate of mushroom ravioli. Deep, woodsy, but not overwhelmingly mushroomy (I LOVE mushrooms and if I were making this I would have blown it by going overboard with the mushroom intensity). Again, balance. Dessert was simple but perfect, a small pastry ("canelé") that was custardy on the inside and brûlė on the outide. And as if this weren't enough, the atmosphere itself is a work of art: heavy curtains, quiet, it cultivates a feeling of being slightly naughty, like a very respectable speakeasy. Minimal signage out front, and as you hesitantly approach the front door it swings open to a greeting of "bon soir." It sound precious but trust me it works, even for a hardened cynic like me. The whole evening as very low key, not a whiff of pretense, casual but classy. I can't wait to go back.
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