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😒 3/5 - Bernie's is a white tablecloth outpost on the edge of the
By 👻 @Christopher L., 05/03/2021 3:00 am
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Bernie's is a white tablecloth outpost on the edge of the Catskills. It is a high-end fish and steakhouse, and I certainly can see how folks jonesing for a fine-dining experience might enjoy a splurge here. Bernie's does execute its menu rather well, and it certainly delivers strong service. At the same time, it struck us as a big fish in a small pond, and the value simply didn't hold up well against other fine-dining experiences we've enjoyed.The staff was warm, knowledgeable, and prompt. Everyone wore masks properly. We also were perhaps a little casual and grungy when we walked in, but they never batted an eye and treated us with the same respect and courtesy as the buttoned-down table next to us. Their well-earned gratuity also is included in the tab, which I very much appreciated.The menu features a lot of premium protein from both surf and turf. Ahi tuna, lobster, duck, lamb, and five cuts of steak - including a Wagyu beef - all make appearances. It is decadent and pricy. The options present an eclectic mix of traditional meat, starch, and veg; Asian-inspired dishes like Ramen; and wildcard Mediterranean plates like Branzino. There isn't a clear identity here, and my guess is that it's a mix of classic dishes to please longtime customers and newer offerings that reflect the chef's perspective. Some of the beef and pork is locally sourced, but it strikes me as a minor scandal that a restaurant billing itself as a fishhouse apparently does not have a single locally-caught fish on its menu. I don't know how Bernie's sources its fish, but generally closer means fresher. The entrees also seem collectively determined to shake you down. It's not so much that the individual dishes are unreasonably priced (steaks for $30-$59 seems fair enough) as it is the lack of range. The menu only has two entrees below $30 (and both of those, the pot pie and the meatloaf, are probably the most questionable deals at $29). What harm would it do to offer a gourmet burger at $18-19? The food itself reminded me of some of the fancier wedding receptions I've been to: competently-prepared premium ingredients with filling portions that otherwise lack distinction, for better or worse. My hanger steak ($30) was solid. The steak itself was cooked to a perfect rare, the chimichurri sauce was OK, and the steak fries and cauliflower did their duty by taking up space on the plate. There was nothing wrong with it -- and I liked the steak a lot -- but it's basically a pricy meat-and-two. My wife rated her Branzino (which came with polenta and kale) as pretty good, if slightly overcooked.The bar let us down. Bernie's has a full bar, and they deserve credit for including local craft beer selections in their offerings. I also appreciate the reasonable pricing on drinks (drafts $6/wine by the glass $7.5/cocktails $11-12). But the showpiece is a spectacularly long cocktail menu of more than two dozen classics and standards. In my experience, bars with cocktail bibles usually fall back on mixes rather than fresh citrus and syrups -- this was the case with my wife's Margarita. My own Manhattan was shaken rather than stirred, which is a basic error on a standard drink that makes a significant difference in the presentation and taste. I recognize that these complaints are detail-oriented, but it seems to me that mastering the details is a significant part of what fine dining is about. The most straightforward solution here would be to trim the cocktail menu down and train the staff to execute them consistently with fresh ingredients. We love fine dining. We also don't mind spending a fair bit of money on a good meal. But we also have high expectations. So Bernie's may well be the best restaurant within 50 miles, but to us it's just not worth the premium.
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