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😍 5/5 - When my wife and I ate at La Tour d'Argent almost 28 years
By 👻 @Philip C., 12/11/2021 3:00 am
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When my wife and I ate at La Tour d'Argent almost 28 years ago, I didn't know anything about the restaurant and didn't try its famous pressed duck. After almost 28 years of regret, my wife and I finally returned to La Tour d'Argent, this time with our daughter, to finally try it.After we arrived at the restaurant, we took a tiny elevator up to the dining room in the tower. When we walked into the dining room, it was even more beautiful than I had remembered. The glass domed ceiling impressive and Paris IS, after all, The City of Lights; the nighttime view out of the windows is spectacular.We were seated at a table next to a window overlooking the Seine, Pont de la Tournelle and Île Saint-Louis. I think that it was one of the best tables in the house.We started dinner with a glass of La Tour d'Argent's house rosé champagne. Santé!The pressed duck is served only for two. I had pre-ordered it when I made our reservation and planned to share it with our daughter, while my wife ordered a more traditionally prepared duck. My daughter also ordered the langoustine appetizer and I ordered the mystery egg appetizer.The food service started with a trio of amuse-bouches. I'm not entirely sure what they were; the first was a cheese-filled ball of pastry topped with more cheese, the second was a tiny tart filled with acorn squash purée and nuts, and the third was a mystery cube on a cracker. My wife does not have a taste for cheese, but even she enjoyed the cheese ball.After our bouches had been amused, I was presented with THE BIG BOOK OF WINE, which is the biggest and heaviest wine list that I have ever hefted. Fortunately, I had remembered to bring my reading glasses with me and after 10 minutes of trying to pick a bottle of French burgundy, an American sommelier appeared at my side to rescue me. I told her that we liked pinot noirs and wanted a duck-friendly bottle of burgundy in the €250 range. She suggested a bottle of the 2002 Claude Dugat Chevrey-Chambertin, which was perfect.After I was relieved of the BIG BOOK and it was returned to its trolley, we were all introduced to our duck. La Tour d'Argent began counting the ducks it serves in the 1890s. Ours was number 1,175,561. A couple of waiters came by to dismember and skin it, then slice the breast, before returning it to the kitchen for its final preparation. Although I was slightly disappointed to miss the actual pressing of the duck carcass, I think that modern western sensibilities require it to be done in the kitchen.After our duck departed, the next food course of duck consommé with a duck dumpling was served. The presentation felt almost Chinese to me, but the flavors were purely duck.Next, my daughter was presented with her langoustine appetizer and I with my mystery egg appetizer. We had enjoyed some simply prepared langoustines on a cold seafood platter at lunch and she declared the langoustine appetizer to be much tastier and richer. My mystery egg was a sphere served in a purée of green vegetables. I guess that the mystery was how the heck they got a perfectly soft boiled egg into the center of the sphere. When I cut into it with a spoon, the liquid golden yellow yolk ran into the bright green puree. It was delicious and fun.When the main courses were served, my wife received her more traditionally prepared duck breast, while my daughter and I received the first pressed duck course of duck breast in blood sauce. The breast was extremely rare and sliced very thinp. The sauce was made from the bloody juices that had been pressed from the carcass of the duck. Although the presentation was quite plain, the breast was tender, and the sauce was richly flavored with an unexpected hint of sweetness. After we polished off the breast, the second pressed duck course of crispy thigh with accompaniments was brought out. The thigh was the best bite of food that I enjoyed during our week of gorging on food in Paris. Yum!For dessert, our daughter chose the Crêpes Mademoiselle for the table. It was prepared tableside by a waiter with quite a bit of flair. It had been years since I had seen anything flambéed in a restaurant and the fireball was epic.After dessert, we were treated to a trio of sweets, which were a couple of cookies and an intensely flavored fruit jelly.My wife, daughter and I enjoyed many terrific meals during our trip to Paris, but our meal at La Tour d'Argent was my favorite. I won't permit another 28 years to pass before we return. In fact, I'm already planning to dine there again next year. 2022 cannot come soon enough.
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