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😍 5/5 - Shion 69 Leonard stands out as the premier sushiya in NYC.
By 👻 @Tyler S., 08/11/2023 3:00 am
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Over my seven visits, I've been consistently impressed by Chef Shion Uino's technical expertise, his unique selection of Japanese seafood, and a comforting set of otsumami. Shion-san's pedigree and connections to suppliers in his hometown of Amakusa in the Kumamoto Prefecture give him a distinctive edge, allowing him to offer an unparalleled dining experience in the city. Before coming to the United States, Shion-san honed his skills under Takashi Saito at Sushi Saito in Tokyo, currently ranked as the number three sushi restaurant in the city. Eight years of rigorous training equipped him with a profound understanding of sushi-making, from meticulous fish selection to mastering the subtleties of flavor and texture. In 2017, Shion-san arrived in New York to helm the counter at Sushi Amane before moving to 69 Leonard to take over as Executive Chef. His expertise is widely recognized, and in November 2022, his mentor, Takashi Saito, acknowledged him as a qualified sushi professional, operating independently from the "Sushi Saito" Group. Dining at Shion always commences with a selection of seasonal otsumami. The iconic iconic sashimi plate, steamed managatsuo (harvestfish), an uni tasting, grilled tairagai (pen shell), signature kegani (hairy crab), and amadai (tilefish) are familiar staples. Depending on the season, Shion occasionally introduces variations, such as ikura, rich ankimo, or nodoguro when appropriate. The meal continues with a selection of nigiri, a handroll, miso soup, and the best, custardy tamago I've ever tasted. Typically, the meal spans about 2.5 hours and features roughly 18 courses. Among the nigiri, Shion's aji, uni, kohada, otoro, ika, nodoguro, anago, and ama ebi are consistently incredible. Shion excels at nigiri preparation and formation; the nigiri sink (or rather "dance") when he places them in front of the customer. His knife work is on display with his squid, as he intricately scores the neta to improve texture and flavor. While Shion is a reserved yet friendly character, he remains deeply engrossed in his craft throughout the meal. Some diners might miss the more interactive "dinner theater" experience offered at places like Noz or Yoshino. Additionally, while Shion's culinary offerings are top-notch, the ambiance and service could benefit from some refinement. The city's finest sushi restaurants boast warm hinoki wood counters and traditional fixtures, but 69 Leonard's counter is stone and feels cold. Furthermore, Shion's consistency is not always matched by the restaurant's service. The frequent change in servers and the unclear policies regarding add-ons and their pricing can be perplexing for diners. Shion Uino is an excellent sushi chef with extensive training, unparalleled sourcing expertise, and world-class craftsmanship. He specializes in utilizing rare, regional ingredients as well as elevating common ones through technique. Shion 69 Leonard caters to the serious sushi connoisseur who can appreciate the nuances of the menu. For a taste of traditional sushi in New York, Shion is a must-visit.
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