Overly Indulgent Chef, Ultimately Disappointing - Vernick Food & Drink Philadelphia - Buy Reservations
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😒 3/5 - Overly Indulgent Chef, Ultimately Disappointing
By 👻 @Ron G, 07/02/2021 3:00 am
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The tasting menu (at least the one we had on June 24) reflects a chef - who admittedly is one of the city's top talents - is overly indulging his own whims to be different. He has all the technical talent, and service is great, dish presentation is very good ... but what was lacking was in the dishes themselves.
The first course was "Flight of Vegetables" (although 2 of the 5 items were fruit), and it disappointed. The carrot was overcooked and soft, a cube of watermelon tasted like a cube a watermelon, etc. Second was tuna a foie gras (mouse) on warm brioche with caviar. It was very nice. Third was King Crab, which tasted of being tempura fried, served in a wrap of lettuce, with uni mustard. Very nice, but not what I thought we'd get from a chef of this quality. Fourth was corn agnolotti in mushroom consume with morels. It was exceptional, and the highlight of the meal. Fifth was turbot in strawberry and tomato nage (liquid). The sauce overpowered, nothing exceptional with the fish. Sixth was Rocky Mtn Lamb with hollandaise, over green tomato sauce (which, being candid, tasted and had the textural consistency of a fancy, tart pickle relish). The meat was perfectly prepared, and the hollandaise was good - of course, any good chef can do these two parts - but the tart tomato relish it sat upon was an unpleasant combination. I removed it and ate the dish without it. Desert was a white chocolate tart, good but nothing exceptional.
We also had the wine pairing. Again, except for the last wine (a nice red to complement the lamb), the other pairings were interesting but unexceptional wines. Also, twice, one glass was poured to cover the next two courses.
Like it said, I wanted to like it, and there were stars in the courses, but not at the level of what I would expect from one of the city's top chefs. Maybe it was just an uninspired night on his part. Also, perhaps the a la carte dining is a better option here.
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