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🙂 4/5 - A different kind of experience
By 👻 @sarchakra, 03/21/2023 3:00 am
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Owamni by the Sioux Chef is Sean Sherman’s creation along with his partner Dana Thompson. Owámni (‘swirling water’ in the Dakota language) is located on the banks of the river Mississippi in the Water Works Park in the reclaimed riverfront mill in downtown Minneapolis. Using local and natural indigenous resources this concept of a ‘decolonized’ restaurant is a first of its kind. Eurocentric ingredients like cane sugar, wheat flour, lemons, diary, beef, pork, chicken etc. are not used. Instead ingredients like wild rice, squash, quinoa, ground corn, wojape berry, bison, venison, lake fish, elk, duck, turkey and other seasonal produce from local farmers are used to create unique dishes. Our expectations were high although we knew this would be very different to what we’ve ever had in a traditional restaurant. We might have chosen the worst weather of this year to go though. Our dinner reservation was at 8.30 pm. What otherwise is a 1 hour and 10 min drive took almost 3 hours as we were hit with a snow blizzard as soon as we left Rochester. With 0 visibility and strong gusts, the usual 80 mph was more like 20-40 at the most- the entire time. Several moments we thought perhaps we should turn around and leave. But we kept going. Once we arrived we realized we had to take the steps one flight up or two flights down because neither of the entrances were road level. The restaurant is on the second floor of a renovated historical building. There are self service coat hangers before you enter. The restaurant looks and feels pretty narrow and cosy. I had phoned earlier notifying that we’d be arriving later than our scheduled time so we were ushered in almost as soon as we arrived. The restaurant sits on the banks of the Mississippi- with the blizzard we could see just about a glimpse. The food came in pretty quickly. We were told the portions are small and its best to order a few dishes like a tapas. Any preconceived notions you have about the food would be wrong. Indigenous food set in a modern context is a blending of the past and the future. We are so used to excess in our foods- excess of salt, sugar, ingredients. This food is different- low sugar, gluten free, paleo, low sodium. Unexpected and nuanced flavors, textures and unique combination of ingredients makes it something new because where else would you find food like this these days? What we had Wiisagaagomin - drink 1 Bashkodejiibik- drink 2 Both nonalcoholic drink options tasted earthy, woody with some turmeric and ginger flavors and very little sweet. We weren’t a fan of the drinks although it was probably good for us! Smoked Trout & Bean Spread- Lake Superior Trout with wojapi and tostada- I loved this. The trout was so fresh- I don’t usually enjoy fish cooked this way- especially smoked fish, but this was delightful. Complimenting the smokiness of the fish was the creamy bean spread. The tostada was perfect to dip into the fish and beans. The dish looks small but it was actually a great appetizer option. Duck Sandwich with cranberry and sage on a corn tostada- its sour, sweet, smoky and tastes very different than any duck dish I’ve ever tasted. The corn tostada was rustic and perfect. Stuffed Poblano- this was a huge meal- wild rice, mushroom Piccadillo with a hazelnut purée- the salt, sugar, spices content was minimal. I didn’t like this too much but my husband did. Labrador Tea Custard- a soft, smooth, soft custard that is so delicate the crunchy toppings with the honey just was delicious. It was refreshing and a perfect end to the meal. There is an 18% service charge of on every order on top of taxes and gratuity. Most of the portions are indeed small so order a few dishes to share. Overall we enjoyed the experience. The menu is very unusual. It would be interesting to go back and try a different menu with more options. Also we really need to go during the day time where we can enjoy the view of the Mississippi too. The service was very good- every single dish was explained in detail by our server Esiban and he knew a lot about the origin and history of the ingredients as well as how the dishes were prepared.
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