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🤢 2/5 - Jumping the Shark
By 👻 @ProfRT, 06/22/2023 3:00 am
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The Dabney, this year’s Washingtonian Magazine pick as the #1 DC restaurant is richly deserved. We had eaten there five times in the last few years as a couple and with friends and had always left elated. Not last night. We hadn’t eaten at The Dabney in over a year. Much has changed. The dining room has been remodeled and so has the menu. What used to be an à la carte menu is now a six-course tasting menu priced at an attention-getting $185. I do not eat seafood. My wife does not eat red meat. She is not a demanding diner. As long as the ingredients and fresh and well-prepared, she is satisfied. And, to be sure, that’s a low bar. But in my experience, the new price point demands something more. The Dabney’s attempt to accommodate my pisciphobia fell far short. Four miniature cucumber spears in a benign, if enthusiastically hyped, tartar source does not rise to the level of fine dining. Each course was well prepared, apparently highlighting the current locavore trend, but sacrificing anything close to the “wow” factor we had come to expect from The Dabney. When the tuxedoed manager asked us how the meal was going, I told the truth, expressing my disappointment in no uncertain terms. As a “gift” from him, I had a course of four beautiful lamb chops with an unusual sauce the composition of which eludes me.. I appreciated the gesture, and the combination WAS unusual, but less than stunning. Chef Langhorne has become THE rockstar chef of DC. Even early on a Wednesday night, the place was noisy and packed, so I am in a minority. But still, my wife’s disappointment with the mere adequacy of most of her meal only redoubled my own at the embarrassingly feeble attempt to accommodate my dietary preferences. There are several area restaurants that I leave reliably elated by the experience. The Dabney used to be one of them. To a degree, I’m the victim of my own heightened expectations, but, my God, how the mighty have fallen! In its current incarnation, The Dabney is clearly a “special occasion” restaurant. And yes, this was an unforgettable meal, but for all the wrong reasons. For us, The Dabney has jumped the shark.
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